Our Corsica travels take us canyoning through mountains and hiking to mountaintop lakes. Our Corsica travels take us from party beaches to remote ones. Traveling in Corsica is an adventure a day, sprinkled with riverside retreats, clifftop restaurants, and the occasional wild pig.
Where’s Corsica, exactly? And does it belong on your travel wish list? Read on.
“If you don’t project yourself outwards”, our canyoning instructor says calmly, “it will end—how do you say in English—badly.”
I peer over the granite ledge. A gushing waterfall lies to my left and a sheer rock face extends 30 feet below. I feel, rather than see, my husband and kids doubting me from the water below. ‘Terrified’ vastly understates my singular emotion.
“Project outwards”, our guide repeats. Ever the rule follower, I close my eyes and—
Don’t panic, Mom, it ends well.
Where’s Corsica, exactly?
“Corsica is Italian.”, one friend says. Another assures me it’s Greek. The island of Corsica is closer to mainland Italy than any other country. Yet, surprise!—it’s a territory of France.
Who knew? I sure didn’t. Corsica is as elusive as Keyser Söze in The Usual Suspects. We meet only three other Americans on our trip. A testament to how relatively unknown Corsica is in the United States.
Why visit Corsica? I’ll pretend you asked. Follow along on our island adventures to discover what makes Corsica worth finding on a map.
As an aside, if The Usual Suspects reference escaped you, head on over to your sofa and watch it. I’ll wait.
Corsica: What I wish I knew
Corsica is the 4th largest island in the Mediterranean. There is no public transportation so to speak, so renting a car is a must. But be warned, narrow roads and lanes run serpentine around colossal boulders and cliffs. Hairpin turns are frequent and hair-raising.
There are few, if any, barriers between cars and sudden death. Corsican drivers take to the roads like Lewis Hamilton wannabes. They drive like angry wasps. They laugh at lanes. According to my kids, I gasp 3,000 times. And that number doesn’t include the times I disguise my gasp as a cough.
I’m not making a case for Corsica. Bear with me. It gets better.
Corsica: by the numbers
Corsica is 112 miles long at its longest and 52 miles wide at its widest. It has 620 miles of coastline with 200 beaches. It’s home to the world-famous GR 20 Trail and has over 120 summits. Simmer down Corsica, my flights are booked.
We have 12 days. I’d like to cover ground but not feel rushed. Visit areas with different terrain and activities. Dine on authentic Corsican food and drink local wine. It’s a tall order, but Corsica delivers.
In Corsica, there are no bad regions (only bad drivers). Note the map of our route above. Those art school fees are really paying off, Dad.
Instead of a linear path, (hahaha, there are no linear paths in Corsica!) I’ve outlined the highlights from our three destinations in Corsica. Will any of our adventures inspire you to visit? Let’s find out.
Click here for my FREE Corsica Hot Sheet (with links to my favorite spots)
Corsica Travels: Canyoning, Haut-Corse
I jump—plunging into the cold canyon water with semi-wild abandon. I emerge, still holding my nose, to looks of disbelief (my kids, our guide) and pride (my husband). See, Mom? No need to panic.
“What is canyoning?” you ask. A friend aptly describes canyoning as ‘white water rafting without a raft.’ Hmmm, I don’t even enjoy white water rafting with a raft. The gorges and valleys of the Restonica River are widely known for the sport. If I’m going to try it, I’m in the right place.
After a sweaty 45-minute bathing-suit-clad hike, we put on our wetsuits, helmets, and water shoes. This isn’t pretty. Note the lack of photographic evidence. You’ll have to take me at my word.
We wade into a crystal clear pool of water. It’s crazy fun—to use a technical canyoning term. We scale boulders, swim under waterfalls, jump off cliffs, slide over rocks, and zip line above the river with child-like joy.
White water rafting without a raft turns out to be my new favorite sport.
Corsica Travels: Hiking, Haut-Corse
Our holiday wouldn’t be complete without a treacherous hike organized by my husband. The fact that Daniel and I fight when we hike would lead one to think it’s an activity to be avoided. But, no.
The ride to the trailhead is short, yet harrowing. Blind corners with unyielding boulders on one side and unnerving precipices on the other. My kids will say I’m being hyperbolic. Wait. They don’t know what hyperbolic means. They’ll say I’m being emo.
Our goal is a 4-mile in-and-out hike to Lac de Melu, in Haut-Corse. The lake sits at an elevation of 5,610 ft. Why we never visit sea-level lakes as regular people do continues to baffle me. The views, (it pains me to admit), are worth the struggle. Don’t tell Daniel.
The landscape is prehistoric. I feel small—like ‘on the set of Jurassic Park’ small. Instead of ferocious dinosaurs, though, we encounter docile cows. Tall pines and fragrant alders look tiny against the towering jagged mountains that loom in the distance.
Rangy rock faces glisten in the colors of Olympic medals. A gold medal is exactly what I’ll deserve after a day dodging cow dung with two moody teenagers. That, and a vodka tonic.
Corsica Travels: Coastal Towns and Vineyards
Choosing which towns to visit on an island with 650 miles of coastline is a challenge. But I rise to it. Three exceptional examples follow.
PORTO-VECCHIO
Porto-Vecchio is a harbor town in southeast Corsica. Its focal point is Eglise St. Jean-Baptiste, a 19th-century church tower. Beside the church, an old-fashioned merry-go-round slowly rotates, delighting children.
Boutiques, wine shops, and restaurants are abuzz on the piazza. The heartbeat of Porto-Vecchio is palpable. A lovely introduction to Corsican life.
BONIFACIO
Bonifacio towers over the southernmost tip of Corsica. It has sculpted chalk-white limestone cliffs that plunge dramatically into the Mediterranean Sea. These imposing sea walls are part of what makes Bonifacio one of the most popular places to visit in Corsica.
Bonifacio is as picturesque as it is historical. The Staircase of King Aragon sits 200 feet above the sea. It was built in 1420 in order to access a freshwater well. Each of the 189 irregular stone steps is an accident waiting to happen, yet they are the highlight of my day.
After I reach the bottom, I walk along and under caves of eroding limestone. The Mediterranean views are interrupted only by paper-white sails of passing schooners. The water is luminous.
The downside of King Aragon’s arduous steps is as clear as the sea. What goes down, must come up. I curse you, King Aragon. My quads still hurt.
PATRIMONIO
Patrimonio is considered Corsica’s best-known wine region. Our drive through Patrimonio reveals patterns of terraced vineyards in the foreground and Saint Florent Bay in the background. It’s a spectacular setting to sample the wines of the region. As an added bonus, it requires no death-defying roads.
We visit Domaine Leccia and Orenga de Gaffory wineries. Since I’m the only one in my family who enjoys wine tasting, I’m forced to drink at record speed. Corsicans do nothing at record speed, except drive. Needless to say, I do nothing to alter American stereotypes. I hope the other three Americans in Corsica are better behaved.
Click here for my FREE Corsica Hot Sheet (with links to my favorite spots)
Corsica Travels: Hilltop Villages
While visiting Corsica’s numerous hilltop villages, we hear pealing church bells celebrating a local wedding. We sit on lively piazzas with glasses of cloudy Pastis—a centuries-old pastime. Visiting these villages is another highlight of our Corsica travels.
NONZA
Nonza is located along another sea cliff wall. This time on the west coast of Cap Corse. Nonza is so tiny that by the time we realize we’ve reached it, we’ve passed it. My husband does an 18-point K-turn and finds a place to park. I make a mental note that arguing while driving has surpassed arguing while hiking.
The village centers around the 16th-century church of Saint-Julie. Its bright orange facade stands out against the village’s otherwise white-washed, ancient buildings. Wild oleander is in bloom, in colors to inspire Nars’ next shades of lip gloss.
We have lunch at La Sassa—an outdoor-only restaurant with a low-key party vibe and Michelin-worthy food. It overhangs the sea—160 meters above the beach.
White-capped waves swirl below and the Genoese Tower of Nonza soars above—an unparalleled lunch setting, indeed.
At La Sassa, reservations are a must. I’m not proud to admit it, but I felt smug watching hungry onlookers envy my tuna tartare.
CORTE
Corte lies deep in the mountainous interior of the island. The air smells of pine, the humidity is low, and rivers and waterfalls rumble gently in the distance.
Although crowded, the town of Corte feels untouched by mainstream tourism. The piazza overflows with locals. A musician croons. I notice people sitting on windowsills above—catching notes as they rise into the sky. A snapshot of Corsican life I capture in my mind, rather than with my camera.
Corte steals my heart in the subtlest ways. With its hidden pottery studios, produce markets, and a spectacular citadel piercing the sky. When I return home, I’ll remember these moments—the simplicity and authenticity. And I’ll miss it.
OLETTA
Oletta is the opposite of the lively and musical Corte. It’s eerily quiet, with jagged stone steps and paths that weave intricately around the village. Flowers and vines climb crumbling stone walls and overflow from ceramic pots. How they grow is a mystery, as Oletta’s narrow, sleepy streets hardly allow for sunlight to reach them.
One evening we dine in the village and the residents magically appear—playing cards laughing, and drinking. Where have they been hiding?
We sit outdoors at A Forge, a restaurant overlooking the valley. By the time we head back to our hotel, everyone has disappeared. The town is silent yet again.
Corsica Travels: Beaches
The beaches that surround Corsica range from nearly deserted, boat-access only to restaurant-lined with a party vibe. For the sake of keeping my audience engaged (are you still with me?) two of many standouts follow.
THE LAVEZZI ISLANDS ARCHIPELAGO
The Lavezzi Islands Archipelago, in southern Corsica, is located just a few miles from the formidable limestone walls of Bonifacio. Accessible only by boat, it’s an aquatic playground for divers and snorkelers alike.
Some of the islands are quiet, with gigantic, granite boulders that break the water’s glassy surface. Coral reefs are chock full of colorful schools of fish.
Other islands are a party on the sea with tranquil, waist-deep water. This creates a pop-up pool party atmosphere impossible not to enjoy. Think bikini-clad (and yikes, Speed-O-clad) people dancing on boats, in-water volleyball games, and colorful inflatable rafts floating on the placid Mediterranean Sea.
AGRIATES DESERT
The Agriates Desert, in Northern Corsica, is a barren and dry coastline mainly accessible by boat. Any day in Corsica that doesn’t require driving is my kind of day.
But, calling this 40km stretch of protected land a desert is misleading. The Agriates Desert is home to Corsica’s most remote beaches: Windswept, scrub-covered, wild, and sun-scorched.
Windex-colored waters, pale limestone boulders, and wide stretches of golden sand are what make this part of the Corsican coast so appealing. The air is heavy with history and the scent of the island’s ubiquitous maquis.
Maquis is a scrubby, untamed shrub that covers much of Corsica’s hills. Its scent is a mix of at least nine herbs including eucalyptus, juniper, rosemary, and heather.
The scent is so popular, that the famous French perfumery, Diptique, makes a maquis-scented candle. For $72 I can relive my Corsica memories from the comfort of home.
Click here for my FREE Corsica Hot Sheet (with links to my favorite spots)
Corsica Travels: Retreats and Hotels
Each of our three accommodations in Corsica is equally enchanting—from riverside retreats to hilltop and beachside boutique hotels. When I ask the kids which place is their favorite, they can’t decide. Well done, me.
LES BERGERIES DE PALOMBAGGIA
Les Bergeries de Palombaggia, in Porto-Vecchio, is a Relais & Chateaux property seven miles from Sardinia. This Italian island’s silhouette provides a never-ending and beautiful backdrop to our stay. Grazie, Italia.
Life at Les Bergeries centers around its inviting infinity-edged pool. The views at sunset, when the sky mirrors the sea, are especially spectacular. Palombaggia Beach is a short, convenient, and pretty walk from the hotel.
The sea air is filled with the aromatic herbs of the maquis. Les Bergeries’ old terra cotta roof tiles have faded to rich hues of sienna and mocha. I spot olive trees with silvery sage leaves and vibrant green umbrella pines. Les Bergeries’ color palette is as French as it gets. The overall vibe is ‘low-key fancy’—my favorite kind.
HIGHLIGHTS Breakfast with locally made jams, crêpes, brioches, and traditional Fiodone (Corsican cheesecake) / La Table de Mina’s poolside dining patio at sunset / Suites with hydrangea-filled balconies overlooking the pool and sea
HOTEL DOMINIQUE COLONNA
Dominique Colonna, in Corte, is a riverside boutique hotel. Inspired by nature, its charm lies in sheer simplicity. Intentionally spartan in design, the rooms are divine, with small balconies facing the river.
The hotel’s low-impact exterior respectfully sits within the dramatic mountainous scenery. Dominique Colonna is a sublime spot from which we launch our Haut-Corse adventures. But the grounds are so welcoming and intimate, that I’m hard-pressed to leave it each day.
HIGHLIGHTS Impeccably-maintained Mediterranean gardens that showcase dwarf olive trees, climbing white jasmine, and Florentine cypresses / The tiered riverside terrace for a breakfast of housemade granolas and local honey / A private massage cube made of wood and glass, nestled in the woods by the pool
AETHOS U PALAZZU SERENU
U Palazzu Serenu, in Oletta, was once a 17th-century palace. After a complete restoration, this nine-room hotel is now basking in its original glory. This classic, austere, contemporary boutique hotel has rooms and common spaces designed in layers of white.
Our suite’s white-louvered windows have all-encompassing views of vineyards and Saint Florent Bay. Recycled wood, museum-worthy art, and artfully chosen coffee table books make the rooms feel personal and homey.
U Palazzu Serenu’s unique selling point is its secret access to Oletta. A creaky back gate hidden behind the pool’s tiered lounging area allows me to explore Oletta whenever I’d like. I go each day, searching for signs of life. Mainly, I see feral cats.
HIGHLIGHTS The small, sheltered dining space by the pool is by reservation only. It serves ‘Italian classics with a Corsican twist’ / Artwork and sculpture by renowned artists such as Paul de Pignol, Wendy Wischer, and Udo Nöger / The pool. Views from the pool. Drinks at the pool.
In Corsica, All’s Well That Ends Well
It’s pretty hard not to fall for Corsica. Even if that means intentionally falling from a 30-foot granite ledge into a gurgling river. I placed my trust in this rugged, craggy, and far-flung island. I was ever-rewarded.
The beauty of Corsica is in the adventures, but it’s also in the details. The colorful facade of a hilltop church against emerald green mountains. Wild oleander poking through an ancient stone wall beside an abandoned Genoese tower. A pottery studio found only by following wooden signs through a maze-like village. Wild pigs grazing on the side of the road.
As I said, it’s hard not to fall for Corsica. Just don’t forget to project outwards. You won’t regret it.
Click here for my FREE Corsica Hot Sheet (with links to my favorite spots)
I’d love to do Corsica and Sardinia on the same trip to see how different the cultures feel. Loved this!
I would love to go to Sardinia too! At least I now know where it is : ) Thank you for reading and the nice comment. -Jamie
Gorgeous! Makes me want to go ASAP. The other CAPRI!