Croatia is one of the most alluring countries in Europe. I say that with conviction, having visited three times in the past decade. Why is Croatia’s magnetic pull so strong? It is the rich cultural roots, devastatingly beautiful scenery, and welcoming people, for a start. Read on to discover two of the best ways to explore Croatia.
“Land or sea, which is better?”, I’ve often been asked since returning from Croatia last month. Why don’t we have a friendly competition? Allow me to introduce the players.
The Land
The Istrian peninsula, in the northwestern corner of Croatia, is shared by three countries: Croatia, Slovenia, and Italy. While Croatia possesses the largest part of this heart-shaped land mass, Italian and Slovenian influences are strong. Italy is so easily accessible, that the seaside town of Rovinj offers day trips to Venice.
Istria’s landscape is carpeted in trellised vineyards and gnarled olive trees. Clusters of flowering oleander hug crumbling rock walls in colors that might inspire Nars’ next shade of lip gloss.
The hilltop village of Motovun has dense, oak forests filled with prized truffles. In Pula, a 1st century AD Roman amphitheater is the historic centerpiece of the city. Pula Arena now welcomes visitors, rather than gladiators.
Istria, a treasure trove of riches.
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Villa Barbara, in the center of Istria’s heart, is where we spent our week on land. The villa offered manageable drives to picturesque villages and local restaurants, while also providing on-property entertainment.
The Sea
With over 1200 islands, the Dalmatian Coast of Croatia has no trouble exceeding expectations. The islands of Croatia surrounding Dubrovnik are so tempting, and so sought-after, that we decided to seek adventures farther afield.
In both 2015 and 2018, we chartered a gulet, and navigated popular tourist routes. Either starting in Dubrovnik or Split, and visiting the islands of Hvar, Korčula, Brač, Mljet, and Vis, along the way. This summer, we started our journey in historic Šibenik, where the river Krka flows gently into the Adriatic Sea.
A gulet is a traditional wooden sailing vessel, usually with two or three masts. Many gulets have been repurposed as private charters to take visitors around the Mediterranean in comfort and luxury. For anyone raising an eyebrow in doubt, this is not your grandmother’s Celebrity cruise.
Accommodations in Croatia: Land
Set on nearly six acres, Villa Barbara has everything a large family gathering could want. Tennis and basketball courts, and a golf range, for the most active among us. Ping pong, foosball, billiards, and bicycles, for the slightly less active. A pool, sun loungers, and hot tub, for the essentially inactive (ummm, me).
Poolside, I would watch swallows dip into the water for a sneaky sip. I noticed the billowy clouds which would later create dramatic sunsets. The property is surrounded by stone walls that are edged with hydrangeas exploding in pink. The air is heavily scented with lavender and rosemary.
Villa Barbara is modern, with modern amenities, and easily accommodated our group of 13. It has six bedrooms, seven bathrooms, and an enormous open-plan living space.
Space—a non-negotiable requirement when traveling with family. Floor-to-ceiling windows open to the pool, which made indoor and outdoor life blur together.
Accommodations in Croatia: Sea
If Villa Barbara struck the utopian combination of indoor and outdoor living, the gulet Perla is full-tilt outdoor life. 99% of our waking hours were enjoyed on deck in the Croatian summer sun.
Roughly 100ft in length, the Perla has seven cabins (each with an en-suite bathroom). Finding that all-important personal space is hardly an issue. There are soft lounge cushions on the deck towards the bow, and a wide, shaded daybed, at the stern.
In between, are several other areas to (quite, literally) check out. Some are just right for coffee, others for late-afternoon cocktails. There is a spot at the very tip of the bow to recreate that famous Titanic moment. (Not the one with the troublesome iceberg).
Our days at sea took on a rhythmic flow—a natural migration from the stern to the bow. Around 8am, we’d emerge from below deck for breakfast, then flop onto the daybed as the crew pulled up anchor. Some of us would begin to head towards the sun loungers, with books, coffee, and SPF 50, in hand.
A siesta would beckon around 2pm, induced by a hearty lunch and a few bottles of white wine. By late afternoon, we would settle towards the bow, ready to anchor and let the afternoon activities begin.
The sea has its own agenda. Glassy, flat, and still in the morning, as if it too, had trouble waking up. Breezes would gather, and by midday, the sea is a hive of activity. Naturally, easing the passage for sailboats and schooners alike. Stillness returns in the late afternoon—the color of the water mirroring the colors in the sky.
A gulet is a playground on the sea. I didn’t have to be ten years old to enjoy jumping from the deck into the gentle, turquoise waters. (However, I do think there should be an age limit on backflips).
The Perla has more toys than necessary, as the sea itself provides endless entertainment. Nevertheless, we’d make constant use of the kayak, two stand-up paddle boards, waterskis, wake board, and donut. Snorkeling equipment, and colorful noodles, are ready and waiting for the anchor to drop.
Exploring Croatia: Land
It is always hard to leave the grounds of a great villa, and many of us didn’t. Those of us interested in touring the countryside and seaside ports of Istria took small trips to satiate our curiosity. (aka: bribing kids with gelato to join).
Rovinj is undoubtedly the star of Istria’s coast. A fishing port with narrow, cobbled pedestrian-only streets to explore. A marina filled with super yachts to ogle over. A Michelin-starred restaurant at which to dine, and a storybook old town to over-photograph.
Pealing church bells would mark the hour. At noon, Rovinj is at the height of activity (and heat) which is an excellent time to leave. I took one last look upwards at the looming church tower punctuating the cloudless sky.
For a moment I wished I was still at the top of the town, admiring the Basilica of St Euphemia’s, and stealing licks from my niece’s gelato. But, the villa pool called, as did lunch, and a glass of chilled rosé.
There was far more to see in Istria than time would allow. Like, medieval Motovun which hovers at 900 feet above sea level. Also, the settlement of Hum, is known for being Croatia’s smallest village, with a population of 30.
Exploring Croatia: Sea
On land, we explored Croatia by car, finding villages with the help of Google maps and Waze. Karlo, Perla’s expert captain, and his skilled crew steered us directly to islands in the Adriatic Sea. It is the ultimate way to get a full sense of the coast. However, it’s not the ultimate way to burn calories. Note to self: turn off the step counter app at embarkation.
Life at sea is inherently nomadic. A constant and mesmerizing world streaming like BBC’s Blue Planet docu-series. Every so often, the barren landscape is interrupted by the distinct terracotta roof tiles of a village. On a lucky day, we might spot a pod of dolphins, or a lone tuna thrashing through the water’s surface.
The beauty of visiting some of Croatia’s lesser-known islands is the lack of tourist traps, cruise ships, and tatty souvenir shops. Instead, insert gelato shops, lined with locals still dripping in wet bathing suits. Insert kids selling shells, rather than lemonade, along the waterfront.
Croatia’s best places to visit; a shortlist
Zlarin: I am inclined to deny the existence of Zlarin, for fear that tourists will overrun it. Fishing boats, smaller than most American SUVs, bob gently in the marina, their Yamaha engines pulled up for the day.
Mustard yellow paint peels from Zlarin’s humble church tower. Kids’ bike bells ding as they race past their grandfathers playing bocce in the town square. A fairytale existence, playing out in real-time, against a dramatic sunset on this small island. Zlarin—my favorite Croatian island.
Murter: Murter doesn’t get the airtime of Korčula or Brač, but this island is as scenic as any other. And, without the heaving crowds. Its main town is confusingly also called Murter. At dusk, we strolled leisurely along the harbor, noticing kids playing with old-school toys, rather than new-age gadgets.
I could hear music escaping from windows embellished by sea foam-colored shutters. Restaurant patios began to fill up with salty, sandy diners, just in from a day at the beach. Murter—my favorite Croatian island.
Primošten: Cruising into the harbor of Primošten just might be my favorite moment of the trip. The sun was just beginning to set behind this medieval fishing village and created a fiery orange aura around it. We were all enchanted, nearly silent, as the sun dipped further and cast the island into a black silhouette.
While I could have watched the island from the boat all night, the town beckoned. In August, Primošten has a buzzy summer holiday vibe, and restaurant tables pool into the streets. The sound of laughter, lapping waves, and clinking glasses fill the air.
Our group dispersed, some on the hunt for gelato, others for a pint of Guinness. Primošten—my favoite Croatian island.
Feasting in Croatia: Land
Understanding a place by its regional spices, local ingredients, and culinary traditions, is one of the more entertaining ways to explore a country. It would be somehow unfair of me to ignore Croatia’s viticultural landscape.
The wines produced in Croatia naturally accompany the food—and are a part of the country’s culinary history and soul. Croatia—consider me your humble student.
Some evenings, we hired a local chef on-site for dinner. On other nights we would cook for ourselves. We would form groups. For reasons that need no explanation, husbands, wives, and kids, from the same family were not grouped together.
Home cooking presented yet another interesting way to explore the Istrian culture. Supermarket culture, that is. Countless trips to Plodine (the Safeway of Croatia) ensued. We hunted unsuccessfully for mint and basil. We received frantic gestures from Croatian shoppers—our mysterious supermarket faux pas to be forever unknown.
Roasted suckling pig at the villa was a dinner highlight. Known in Croatian as Odojak na ranznju, it was not only delicious but a large form of entertainment. The kids watched it rotate for hours on the spit.
Meneghetti Wine Hotel and Winery, Bale, Croatia
A wine hotel? If I had known such a place existed, I would have visited Istria years ago. With an amphitheater of vines, centuries-old, stone buildings, a Relais & Chateaux restaurant, and a 15-suite hotel, Meneghetti is an oenophile’s paradise.
We decided to have a pre-lunch wine tasting. This is a wine hotel, after all. We lost ourselves in the light, pale, citrus, notes of Malvazija Istarska (Malvasia), among other varieties.
An hour later, we stumbled to our shaded spot at Oliveto. Light breezes ruffled the patio umbrellas. Waiters moved effortlessly from table to table. They delivered beautifully prepared entrées, like pasta with shaved summer truffles, veal Osso Bucco, and bottles of Meneghetti wine.
We were overdue for a long, boozy, lunch, and the al fresco patio at Oliveto beckoned us to linger.
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Hiša Franko, Kobarid, Slovenia
Would you drive three hours for a three-hour lunch? How about crossing an international border to get there? If it were served, would you try bear paw? It turns out there is very little I won’t do or try, when it comes to food. Especially when that food is created by one of the world’s top chefs, Ana Roš.
Our prix-fixe, 23-course lunch at Hiša Franko, (currently ranked the 38th best restaurant in the world, with two-Michelin stars), is worthy of a post of its own. Watch this space.
A dining experience like this requires a culinary leap of faith. I placed myself in Chef Ana’s skillful hands, and let go of any food perceptions I harbored.
Hiša Franko glows from the inside out. The farmhouse exterior has warm, salmon-colored walls, while the interior is painted a rich, tomato red. The red walls, and avant-garde lighting, highlight the eclectic artwork that adorns them. Flowers are in abundance, and the verdant green mountains are particularly rich against the blue sky.
Chef Ana describes her menu, called Reincarnation, as ‘curious, fun, and confusing’. She exceeds on all points in the most enticing ways. Ana’s food is as artistic and innovative as the paintings we sat beside, perhaps even more.
The corn beignet with fermented cottage cheese, smoked trout, and wild chives, was an unexpected standout, among many unexpected standouts. Tortilla with alpine mole, rowan berry oil, fermented beets, and roasted lamb, was another. But perhaps, nothing surprised us more than chestnut dumpling filled with bear paw, topped with a forest consommé.
My 17-year-old daughter asked if it was really a bear paw. It was a question the rest of us were too intimidated to ask. And indeed, it was. Wild brown bears overpopulate Slovenia, so bear hunting is allowed (and actually provides very tender meat.)
Hiša Franko: A journey for the most adventurous foodies.
Feasting in Croatia: Sea
Our days on the Perla would revolve around food. One perk of boat life is never having to worry about finding a dinner reservation for thirteen. Not to mention, overordering, underordering, or miscalculating the currency conversions.
Our talented chef, Boke, understood our dining style from the first day. That is not to be underestimated when you consider that he must cater to different nationalities, eating habits, food allergies, and tastes, every week.
Mornings would start with the smell of bacon (no one is allergic to bacon). A continental-style breakfast of yogurts, cereals, fresh-cut fruit, and eggs, would follow.
Lunch was served around 130pm, and might include a salad of local peppers with zesty onions, feta, and olives. Filets of local monkfish or other local fish would grace the table.
We devoured hearty bread that stood up to the Istrian olive oil we would slather it in. Boke would always surprise us with a simple dessert to top off the meal. By 230pm, I often lapsed into a food coma.
Dinner, typically served between 8-9pm, was my favorite meal. By then we had all showered off the day’s salt water and sun and were ready to reminisce about the day’s antics. Some nights we would have simply grilled meats, with salads, and vegetables.
Other dinners were fish-based, like Croatian Shark (dogfish), or swordfish. Each night, Boke would create a surprise dessert that satisfied those of us with a demanding sweet tooth (re: everyone).
Land or Sea, who wins?
One could argue neither wins, as it comes down to personal tastes. Both, however, gave me permission to slow down and to be pulled out of my daily routine. Even if only for a few weeks. Permission to relax, engage with my kids, play games, and get lost in thought. Isn’t that the point of a well-earned holiday with family we may not have seen in far too long?
I wonder where I draw my energy from. Is it the land, or the sea? Do I prefer a fixed, or a nomadic, life? Would I ever eat bear paw again? These are questions I am happy to keep pondering. Maybe, one more visit to Croatia will help.
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Author’s Note: I’ve cruised the islands of Croatia multiple times. And have formed a wonderful relationship with the owners of Adriatic Cruising, who own a fleet of four lovely gulets. If you have any interest in being introduced, please contact me. My email is: [email protected] and I will happily put you in touch.
Where will you find yourself next? Just click:
Tack Dubrovnik on to your Adriatic adventure and stay at, hidden-in-plain-sight, Villa Dubrovnik.
Montenegro is practically next door. Consider a stay at the 15th c. island village—Aman Sveti Stefan.
Prefer to sail in the Caribbean? The Windward Islands are calling.
Jamie, you make me salivate to travel! Even screenside traveling with you is immensely satisfying. I’m a neighbor of yours in the Palisades–in a way it makes sense that you come home to roost in such a sleepy locale. Thank you for sharing your wonderful travelogue, and each of your senses.
Hi Judy, and fellow Palisader (I love our sleepy neighborhood). Thank you for the kind words, and thank you for reading. They definitely gave me a needed boost today. Warmest regards, Jamie